. West Wight Potter. If at any point in this process, we at the factory can assist please give us a call. 1 (877) 674-8021 Best wishes for many pleasant sailing adventures! Sincerely, West Wight Potter.

1 US Coast Guard Requirements.3 Safe Operation. 4 Safe Towing.5 One-Time Rigging.7 Connecting the Shrouds.7 Installing the Main Sheet.9 Installing the Furling Line and a Headsail on a CDI Roller Furler.10 Initial Mast Tuning. US Coast Guard Requirements: (1) The United States Coast Guard requires you to have the following safety equipment on your boat. This is the minimum safety equipment you should have. There may be other laws (state, local, etc.) that require additional safety equipment. Safe Operation: WARNINGS: Carefully follow all of the following warnings.

Failure to follow these warnings can result in serious injury or death. (1) Your Potter is a very safe boat, but all boats pose some dangers. Following these warnings will help keep you safe as you use your boat. (a) Do not raise the mast near power lines, or take the boat near power lines when the mast is up. Safe Towing (1) A normally equipped Potter 19 on a trailer will weigh about 2000 pounds when empty. Adding things like water, anchors, coolers, supplies, etc will increase the weight.

Make sure your tow vehicle and hitch are rated to tow the full weight of your boat, trailer, and gear. Figure 1-2 Figure 1-3 (b) Make sure the safety chains are attached to the tow vehicle. (c) Make sure all the trailer lights - turn signals, break lights, and running lights (parking lights) - work. (d) If you have trailer brakes, make sure the break-away cable is attached to the tow vehicle. One-Time Rigging A. Connecting the Shrouds (1) Some people disconnect the shrouds from their chainplates every time they tow their boat. Others leave them attached.

(2) When connecting the shrouds, the lower shroud connects to the forward hole in the chainplate. The upper shroud connects to the aft hole in the chainplate. Refer to Figure 2-1. (3) To attach the shroud to the chainplate, install a pin and cotter ring at the bottom of the turnbuckle.

It is a good safety practice to tape cotter rings. Refer to Figure 2-2.

Installing the Main Sheet (1) Here’s how to route the main sheet (See Fig 2-3): Figure 2-3 (a) If the two pulleys are not installed on the aft deck, then install them. The pulley with the becket (the extension to tie the end of the line to) goes on the port side. Installing the Furling Line and a Headsail on a CDI Roller Furler (1) The following procedure tells how to put the reefing line and a sail on the CDI roller furler.

If you need instructions for installing the roller furler on the forestay, then refer to CDI’s instructions. (b) Poke the end of the line up through the small hole in the spool.

(c) Tie a knot in the end of the line so it will not go back down through the hole in the spool. (d) Route the other end of the furling line through its guides on the deck and to its cleat. (e) Measure the distance from the tack of the sail (its lower forward corner) to the tack tension shackle. Normally this distance should be 2 to 10 inches. (f) If the distance is not in the suggested range, then lower the sail and adjust the length of the halyard to adjust the height of the sail.

(d) If you have fewer than 6 turns, then grab the sail and wind more turns of line on the spool. Make sure the sail stays furled as you do this. Again, this must be done when the sheets are NOT attached to the sail. (e) Tighten the forestay and back stay alternately, keeping the mast vertical in the fore and aft direction until you can pull the backstay about 2 inches with two fingers (placed about 5 feet above the deck) before the resistance increases noticeably. Figure 2-7 (j) The side shrouds should be just tight enough to make a very low pitched 'musical tone' when you strike the bare wire with a small wrench or pliers. That's about 10% of breaking strength, or a little tighter.

If the shrouds don’t “ring”, then tighten them a little more. Setup Before Launching E.

Raising the Mast: Note: There are two basic ways to raise the mast: 1. Physically lift it directly, or 2. Use a mast raising system.

This manual has instructions for both methods. The mast can be raised by one person, but if this is your first time raising the mast, then find a second person to help. (f) Connect the electrical connector at the base of the mast (see Fig 3-1). (2) Arrange all the stays and shrouds as follows: (a) Bring the bottom end of the forestay forward and make sure it is on top of all the other wires and not tangled with other things. WARNING: Look up! Make sure there is nothing up there that the mast will hit as you lift it.

Especially, make sure there is a lot of distance between you and any power lines. If the mast hits or even comes near a power line, it can kill you. (c) Attach the forestay to its chain-plate with its pin (See Fig 3-4). It attaches to the forward hole in the chain-plate (the tack of the jip attaches to the aft hole). When the mast is properly tuned, it will be difficult to pull the forestay hard enough to install the quick-release pin. Figure 3-5 (b) Attach other end of the block and tackle to the clip on the bow pulpit, or to the AFT hole in the forestay’s chain-plate. See Figure 3-6.

Figure 3-6 (c) Connect the two baby stays and the gin-pole to the mast (see Fig 3-7). Figure 3-7 (d) Connect the baby stays to the fittings on the cabin top (see Fig 3-6).

(e) Pull on the free end of the jib halyard until the gin pole is held vertical. Then cleat the halyard off securely to its cleat on the mast to hold the gin- pole vertical. Lengthen the block and tackle as necessary.

Refer to Figure 3-8. Installing the Boom (1) Do these steps to install the boom: (a) Align the gooseneck on the front of the boom with the gate-opening in the mast slot (see Fig 3-9). The little shackle on the gooseneck goes up. Slide the boom fitting down the mast slot. (b) If you have a topping lift, disconnect the aft end of it from the mast and clip it to the aft most attachment on the end of the boom (see Fig 3-10).

Adjust and cleat the other end of the topping lift so that the boom is roughly level. (d) Connect the boom-vang (if you have one) to the mast with a shackle and pin (see Fig 3-12). Note: Some people prefer to have the adjustable end of the boom vang at the boom instead of at the mast. Do whichever you prefer. Installing the Main Sail: (1) Do these steps to install the main sail: (a) Attach the lower forward corner of the sail (the “tack”) to the shackle on the gooseneck (see Fig 3-13).

Figure 3-13 (b) Tie the outhaul line to the lower aft corner of the sail (the “clew”). Refer to Figure 3-14. (d) Insert the top end of the boltrope (the fat rope at the front edge of the sail), or the first slug (if you have sail slugs) into the slot in the mast. Refer to Figure 3-15.

Pull the sail up a foot or so with the halyard and cleat the halyard. (e) If the battens are not in the sail, now is the time to put them in. Do these steps (see Fig 3-16): Figure 3-16  Determine which batten goes in each pocket.  Note: On the mainsail, the top batten is probably the shortest, the bottom batten is the next shortest, and the two center battens are the same length. Installing a Hanked-on Headsail (Jib, Lapper, or Genoa): (1) Do these steps to install the jib, lapper, or genoa: Note: This applies to hank-on sails only. It does not apply to the CDI furler. Refer to the “One-Time Rigging - Installing the furling line and a headsail on a CDI Roller Furler”.

(d) Tie the jib sheets to the clew of the sail (the clew is the third unattached corner of the sail). You can either use one long line or two shorter lines for the jib sheets. If you use one long line, then tie the middle of it to the clew. Refer to Figure 3-18. Ideally, the sheets will run as follows, depending on which sail you are using:  If you are flying the jib (the smallest headsail) - Run the sheet through a lead block (pulley) at about the center of the forward of the two main cabin windows. Launching Your Boat I. Final checks before Launching (1) Make these final checks before you launch your boat: (a) Make sure there are no power lines, trees, or other obstructions between you and the launch ramp.

(b) Make sure the drain plug is installed in the back of your boat (see Fig 4-1). Figure 4-1 (c) Attach mooring lines to the cleats on the boat deck. Launching the Boat: (2) Do these steps to actually launch the boat (a) Back the boat into the water. Back it in until most of the boat is floating, with just the bow still touching the trailer. With the Baja trailer, this is often about where the top of the trailer fenders submerge in the water. (f) Once the boat is clear of the trailer and secured to the dock or shore, then drive the trailer out of the water.

If you don't have the boat completely clear of the trailer, then the boat can catch on the trailer as you pull the trailer out of the water. Setup After Launching A.

Lowering the Dagger Board (1) Do these steps to lower the daggerboard: (a) Raise the daggerboard an inch or so by turning the winch handle clockwise (as viewed looking aft). Refer to Figure 5-1.

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Figure 5-1 (b) Remove the two bolts from the daggerboard (See Fig 5.2). WARNING: Make sure everything is clear of the daggerboard, especially people. The daggerboard is heavy and could crush fingers or other body parts. (c) Lower the daggerboard by turning the winch handle counter-clockwise (See Fig 5-1). Note: to make it easier to connect the hold-down latches, stop the daggerboard just before it is all the way down. Installing the Rudder (1) Do these steps to install the rudder: (a) Move the rudder into the correct position. (b) Make sure the main sheet lines are above the tiller.

West Wight Potter 15 Owners Manual

(c) Align the upper pintle with the hole in the upper gudgeon and start it into the hole (see Fig 5-4). Preparing the Boat to Go Back on the Trailer A. Raise the Daggerboard (1) Do the following steps to raise the daggerboard: (a) Unscrew the four hold-down latches and drop them to the side of the daggerboard trunk. Refer to Figure 6-1 Figure 6-1 (b) Crank the daggerboard winch clockwise until the bolt holes in the daggerboard clear the top of the daggerboard trunk. (c) Insert each of the two daggerboard bolts through the daggerboard. It doesn’t matter which direction you put them in. Refer to Figure 6-2.

(d) Turn the winch handle counter-clockwise until there is a tiny bit of slack in the cable (see Fig 6-3). This takes the load off the cabin top, but doesn’t give the cable enough slack to tangle on the winch drum. Remove the Rudder (1) Do the following steps to remove the rudder: (a) Press the locking tab on the upper gudgeon. Push it forward toward the hull (see Fig 6-4).

Figure 6-4 (b) Lift the rudder up and remove it. Putting the Boat on the Trailer A. Putting the Trailer in the Water (1) Do these steps to put the trailer in the water: (a) Back the trailer into the water to the same depth that you used to launch the boat.  You can have a second person watch the boat as you pull the boat out of the water.

This person can adjust the position of the boat by pulling on the stern dock line and pushing with a pole or paddle. (e) Install the rear hold-down strap across the cockpit of the boat. If you have cockpit railings, then we recommend you put the strap through the railing.

Refer to Figure 7-3. Packing the Boat Back Up A. Removing the Sails (1) If you have the CDI roller furler, and your headsail has a UV cover on it, then you can leave the headsail on all of the time.

If the sail doesn’t have a UV cover, then you must either remove the sail, put a cover on it, or store the boat where the sail will not be exposed to the sun. Figure 8-1 (6) Do these steps to remove the mainsail: (a) Disconnect the clew of the sail from the back of the boom (the outhaul). (b) Disconnect the halyard from the top of the mainsail. Secure the halyard to the mast so it doesn’t get away. (c) If your sail has slugs, then pull them all out of the track on the mast. Removing the Boom (1) Do these steps to remove the boom (see Fig 8-2): Fig 8-2 (a) Disconnect the boom-vang from the mast (if you have a boom-vang).

(b) Disconnect the downhaul line from its cleat on the mast. (c) Disconnect the mainsheet pulley from the back end of the boom. Figure 8-3 (b) If they are not connected, connect the baby stays to the cabin top and mast (see Fig 8-4). (c) Connect the gin-pole to the mast (see Fig 8-4). (d) Connect the jib halyard to the forward end of the gin-pole (see Fig 8-4).

(e) Connect the mast raising block and tackle to the bow chainplate and to the forward end of the gin-pole. Run the free end of the block and tackle line back through the cam cleat at the cockpit. WARNING: The mast is heavy. Don’t try to lower it single-handedly unless you know you can handle the weight. (4) If you will be lowering the mast manually (without the mast raising system), then do these steps: (a) Install the mast crutch at the back of the boat (see Fig 11-3). CAUTION: Hold on to the forestay tightly as you remove its pin, or have a second person push forward on the mast.

(f) Lower the mast to about chest height, and then squat down to lower it the last part of the way. If you have a second person, they are probably most useful if they stand at the front of the cockpit with one foot on each seat. They can then help hold the mast when it gets down low. (4) Other people leave the shrouds attached and use shock-cords or lines to pull the middle of the shroud forward. If you choose this approach, we recommend you put plastic shroud sleeves on the shrouds.

These are available at most marine stores and will keep the shrouds from leaving black marks where they hit the cabin. Figure 8-9 (b) Or, you can tie a line between the mast and something secure on the transom of the boat. This eliminates the need to put the small pin in the attachment pin of the crutch. We do not recommend a shock-cord here as it may have too much stretch, allowing the mast to bounce out of the crutch. Figure 8-11. Maintenance A. Trailer Maintenance (1) The trailer has 3 things that require routine maintenance.

These are the tires, the wheel bearings, and the winch. CAUTION: Never let air out of the tires as they heat-up. The pressure should be checked when the tires as cold. The pressure will increase as the tires warm up.

Boat Maintenance (1) The only routine maintenance is lubrication of the pulleys and general cleaning. But, also refer to the Electrical section of this guide for information on charging the batteries. (a) Once a year, oil each pulley with light oil. Oil the pulleys for the daggerboard cable, the pulleys on the mast and boom, and the pulleys for the main sheet and jib sheets. Figure 9-2  To remove water from the area under the V-berth seat, open the access hatch to get under the V-berth and look for water at the center of the hull.

 To remove water from each side storage area (under the sink and under the stove), open the hatch on each cabinet. Using Hatches, Ports, Lights, Etc. Forward Hatch (1) The forward hatch is held closed by two lines that attach to small cleats. This hatch should be secured closed with the lines anytime you tow the boat. This will keep it from accidentally blowing or bouncing open.

V-Berth Filler board (1) The V-berth filler board is located as shown in Fig 10-2. Figure 10-2 (View looking Aft from above V-Berth) E. Under Sink and Under Stove Hatches (1) Sometimes these hatches can bounce open if you fit a bump in the road. If you find that this happens on your boat, then we recommend you leave these hatches open when trailering. Figure 10-3 G.

Interior Light (1) The interior light has a switch on it to turn it on and off. Navigation Lights (1) Anchor (mast) Light: (a) When anchored at night you generally need to display an all-around white light. The Electrical System A. Options (1) The electrical system on the Potter 19 has a number of options. It may have one or two batteries. The battery may be located in the compartment under the stove or it may be under the V-berth. Your Potter may have wet-cell batteries or gel-cell batteries.

(e) When you fill the battery with water, fill it only to the BOTTOM of the hole or slot. If you fill it to the top of the slot, the acid will overflow when you charge the battery. Always use distilled water (or equivalent, like reverse osmosis processed water) when filling the battery. (c) WARNING: Always unplug the charger before connecting or disconnecting it from the battery.

Also keep all open flames and sparks away from the battery when it is charging. Batteries produce hydrogen gas when they are charging. This gas can explode if there is a spark near the battery. (2) There are glass-tube type fuses on the forward wall of the cabinet under the stove. Refer to Figure 14-2. If you have a light or other electrical equipment that doesn’t come on, then check these fuses to see if they are blown. Figure 11-2 CAUTION: Do NOT install fuses bigger than 10 amps.

Wiring Diagram (1) Figure 11-3 shows a typical wiring diagram for a Potter 19. Using Accessories A.

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Built-in Fresh Water Tank, Filling and Cleaning (1) To fill the water tank, remove the deck cap and fill the tank with clean water (see Fig 12-1). Figure 12-1 (2) If the water tank gets contaminated, do these steps: (a) Drain the water from the tank.

(j) Pump the water pump until baking soda water comes out the spigot. (k) Let the baking soda water soak for 15 about minutes.

(l) Drain the backing soda water. (m) Rinse the tank with fresh water. Using the Fresh Water Pump (1) Pushing and pulling the handle on the water pump will pump water. (g) When you are finished pumping the tank for the last time, put the hose end in the water (i.e., lake, etc.) and open the valve.

Let the pump suck water like this for around half a minute. This will clean out the hose and pump. (h) Close the valve, shutoff the vacuum pump, and coil its hose. Links (1) The following are some websites that relate to Potters and Sailing.

Sorry about any links that are out-of-date, but, of course, it is impossible to update these links once this guide is printed. (a) The home of Potters, International Marine web site: (b) The Trailer Sailor site:. 14. Glossary Baby-Stay – Short wires that go from the deck to the side of the mast. They keep the mast from swinging sideways as it is raised. Backstay – The wire that goes from the back of the boat to the top of the mast.

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It helps hold the mast up. case of the Potter 19, it is used specifically to describe the largest factory headsail. See also: Jib and Lapper.

Gin-pole – A pole used to help raise the mast. It is connected to the lower part of the mast and sticks out forward when the mast is up. guide or other fitting. It is not a particular type of knot, but a figure eight knot is a good choice (refer to a knot tying book). Tack (n) – The forward lower corner of a sail. Tack (v) – To change course by swinging the bow of the boat through the wind.

This is commonly done to make the zigzag course required to sail to windward.

All of you who requested a Potter 15 owner's manual photocopied and sent - guess what? I got into the storage unit. It only took a pry bar, a big man's muscles, a broken garage door, and my ax to chop out the ice!

Glad I was not on that bar - the unit owner did it! I'm ready to copy, however, how many of you sent addresses? Let me know asap.

Meantime I was snowbound last night 80 miles from home. Winter here is long, beautiful and potentially deadly, so I went into a short hibernation and dreamed of summer.